During this time it was also sometimes referred to as the "East German System". M9: Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths. Ewbank explained "Grading takes the following into consideration: Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors. An alpine grading system adapted from the grades used in the Aoraki/Mt Cook Region is widely used in New Zealand for alpine routes in the North and South islands. IV – Major gullies with several difficult pitches. Easily compare climbing and bouldering difficulties grades between various systems. The climbing grades are used to determine the difficulty in sport climbing, mountaineering and bouldering. Many climbers consider such high grades provisional, as the climbs have not yet been achieved on-sight/ground-up. Using Roman numerals, it was originally intended to run from I (easiest) to VI (hardest), but as with all other grading systems, improvements to climbing standards have led to the system being open-ended after the grade VII was accepted in 1977. Some pitons for belaying. The V-scale, short for Vermin scale has been used by many people. The current practice is to make mention of all factors affecting the climber's experience (exposure, difficulty of setting protection or outright lack of protection) in the description of the climb contained in the guide. The route might take 6–8 hours or more and require pitons belays. The new classifications do not apply to every climb and usage varies widely. The roman system is often dropped and substituted by cardinal numbers (that is, VIsup becomes 6sup). C5/A5: Extreme aid. For Americans or trad climbers it may be difficult to relate it to their usual system and understand how hard a climbing route may be. Fall potential up to 15–20 m. C3+/A3+: Same as C3/A3, but with longer, more dangerous fall potential. 6+ (6b). Coming from our frustrations of always trying to figure out what grading systems are used in which country and what do they mean in your own system, we have created this simple but hopefully helpfull comparison table. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called "commitment grades," indicate the time investment in a route for an "average" climbing team. Please visit them on the web at www.americanalpineclub.org. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of the route. A grade for an individual route also may be a consensus reached by many climbers who have climbed the route. Grade 5A – Ascent (at least 600 m) on a peak between 3000–7500 m or traverses at this height. Grade 2B – Ascent of a peak between 2000–6000 m or traverses at this height on rock, snow and ice with short sections of grade III rock or ice. WI2 – low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one ice axe. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. The Benesch scale had seven levels of difficulty, with level VII the easiest and level I the most difficult. [8] (Wicked Wanda, Ghost River), WI5 – near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests (Carlsberg Column, Field; The Sorcerer, Ghost River; Bourgeau Left Hand, Banff), WI5+ – highly technical WI5 (Oh le Tabernac, Icefield Parkway; Hydrophobia, Ghost River; Sacre Bleu, Banff), WI6 – vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. A0: A free climb with an occasional aid move that does not require specialized aid gear ("aiders" or "etriers"). Alaska Grade 6: Multiday, extremely technical climb. one for exposure, one for technical difficulty, one for protection etc. The MEC logo is a registered trademark of MEC Canada Inc. Touring plans? Daily deals from Dec. 4–15. In the sport of bouldering, problems are assigned technical grades according to several established systems, which are often distinct from those used in roped climbing.Bouldering grade systems in wide use include the Hueco "V" grades (known as the V-scale), Fontainebleau technical grades, route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. C4+/A4+: Severe aid. Generally mixed ice and rock. [22][26][32][33][34][35][27][36][28] On long routes it is often used in the Alps and Himalaya. Sustained difficulty of pitches at or over grade V. The route would take more than 48 hours to complete. Using climbing grades converter you can make a quick conversion between the climbing grade you know and any other encountered during exploration of new areas. Check out our guide to climbing grades so that you can understand the system to climbing difficulty. New Zealand Grade 7: Vertical ice/rock which may not have adequate protection. New day, new deal. Accessibility. Generally, Grade V’s require one or two nights on the wall and Grade VI’s require two to seven nights. Rather than regrade all climbs each time standards improve, additional grades were added at the top—originally only 5.10, but it soon became apparent that an open-ended system was needed, and further grades of 5.11, 5.12, etc. Don’t assume that since you can cruise a 5.8 friction slab, a 5.8 offwidth will feel the same. [18], The Ewbank system is not intended to simply grade the hardest individual move on a climb though the grading system is often described this way. May have small ice step or cornice. Again, no "+" can be added. The route would take 40–50 hours and require the insertion of 100–150 pitons or more for belaying. Found a better deal in Canada? V2+) will designate a bouldering problem being on the harder side of the grade … I – Simple snow slopes or gullies; ridges in good conditions. The first route takes a whole day to be climbed, mostly on easy terrain, but with some serious aid and a very hard crux (when compared to the general grade) that cannot be bypassed by aiding. A1: An aid ladder is used to enable movement. Modern application of climbing grades, especially on climbs at the upper end of the scale (>5.10), also consider how sustained or strenuous a climb is, in addition to the difficulty of the single hardest move. In Sweden, Norway, and Finland, they originally used the UIAA scale. A predawn start is usually indicated, and unforeseen delays can lead to unplanned bivouacs high on the route. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel. Each pitch can take many hours to lead. The adjectival grades are as follows: 1. In 1923, the German mountaineer Willo Welzenbach compressed the scale and turned the order around, so that level 00 became level IV–V. A3: Two aid ladders are used on placements that may be poor quality. The French numerical system (distinct from the adjectival system, described later) rates a climb according to the overall technical difficulty and strenuousness of the route. The route Dark Star, on Temple Crag, is grade V[7] and involves a seven-mile approach and over 2,200 feet, 30 pitches[7] of technical climbing. [1] They may be the opinion of one or a few climbers, often the first ascensionist or the authors of a guidebook. He left the route ungraded, saying only that it was 'harder than Rhapsody'. VS 4a might indicate very poor protection (easy moves, but no gear) or extremely sustained (every move is 4a and the climbing is steep/strenuous whilst reasonably protected), while VS 5b would usually indicate one crux move of 5b that is the first move or very well protected and the rest of the climb without much difficulty. Climbing Grades Comparison Chart. A2: Two aid ladders are used to enable movement. [20] A different approach, using a variable-order Markov model with a description of the sequence of climbing moves, was unable to correctly predict difficulty. New Zealand Grade 1: Easy scramble. They include: The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) of grading routes was initially developed as the Sierra Club grading system in the 1930s to rate hikes and climbs in the Sierra Nevada range. Soon more difficult climbs were made, which originally were graded level 0 and 00. British Trad Grade ‘Trad’ stands for ‘traditional’ and the grade is divided into two parts: The adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, … to E10). May have vertical sections on ice. Free shipping on orders over $50. [21], There are several systems in use to grade mountain climbs. Different grading systems consider these factors in different ways, so no two grading systems have an exact one-to-one correspondence. Difficulty Grades and Conversions - Rockclimbing.com is a rock climbing community website where climbers can find information about rock climbing routes, gear, news, forums, photos, videos and more The system consists of five classes indicating the technical difficulty of the hardest section. Therefore, it was so much harder for me to grasp. (Photo: Maria Ly) Bouldering grades: V-Scale. Climb may be in remote area. M6: Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling. Many tenuous body-weight only placements in a row. Ice climbs may require two tools. Climbing grades do not take into account the danger factor; they only describe the physical difficulty of the route. (Equivalent to French adjectival D or D+). Aid climbing is simply climbing sections of cliffs by using equipment, including rope, aiders, cams, and carabiners, to ascend upward, whereas using only the rock for handholds and footholds to ascend and gear to protect yourself is free climbing.Aid climbing allows climbers to get to wild places on big walls and on faces that would otherwise be unclimbed. Sport climbing in Britain and Ireland uses the French grading system, often prefixed with the letter "F". In the '70s, in Poland, the UIAA scale was in use, when climbing limestone rocks near Cracow, where Polish sport climbing was developed. Which one of these two it might be can hopefully be determined by looking at the climb. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness (The Terminator, Banff; Nemesis, Kootenay Park; Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis Country; Riptide, Banff), WI6+ – vertical or overhanging with no rests, and highly technical WI6 (Fosslimonster, Norway; French Maid, Yoho; French Reality, Kootenay Park). Extremely hard routes on peaks below 4500 m can sometimes qualify for 6B. Only a minority of climbers, the most fit and seasoned, could do this route car to car in a day. Grade-I route was considered a walk, while Grade-VI was described as "hardest". There also exists a rating scale for Alpine Ice (compacted snow or glacial ice) that has the same rating system as the "WI" system, but is instead denoted by "AI." Grade 2A – Ascent of more than 500 m on a peak between 2000–6000 m or traverses at this height on rocks, snow or ice with rock pitches of up to II, and/or snow and ice sections of up to 100 m of II. But since it was thought that 6+ would be the definition of how hard humans could climb, no climber wanted to put up this grade, leaving the entire scale very sand-bagged compared to the UIAA scale. Simpler routes were described as it was before - using Roman numerals. Find out what’s new for hut trips and avalanche safety during COVID-19. Rock climbing grades and scales give the climber an idea of what to expect from a course before they get started, and understanding them is a crucial part of climbing safely. When a route also involves aid climbing, its unique aid designation can be appended to the YDS free climbing rating. These are, in increasing order:[23]. Order online, get it at your local MEC and pay no shipping. Check out this website to see a full chart comparison of the various grade systems used throughout the world, including the Yosemite Decimal System and the V Scale. The climbing grades system is an important part of climbing. Other grade III climbs, such as Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne, are typically done in one day. Traverses combine at least two routes of Grade 4B and 1 route of Grade 4A. M8: Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7. Climbing Grades: Comparison Chart and Rating Systems Overview Trying to figure out what the heck V4 or 5.10 means? The only known example is Wolverine at Helmcken Falls, Canada. The British grading system for traditional climbinghas (in theory) two parts: the adjectival grade and the technical grade. Grade 4B – Ascent (at least 600 m) on a peak between 2500–7000 m or traverses at this height with rock sections of 40–80 m of IV, or short passages of V, and snow and ice sections of 300–400 m or more of IV. [1] Therefore, there is not a perfect agreement in the literature about grading system comparisons or conversion rules. The original intention was that the classes would be subdivided decimally, so that a route graded 4.5 would be a scramble halfway between 4 and 5, and 5.9 would be the hardest rock climb. In post USSR countries, there is Russian grading system, it includes range from grade 1A–6B, and factor in difficulty, altitude, length, and commitment like in Alaskan. The mapping from roman numerals to cardinal numbers occurs because, in the regions where this system is adopted, traditional climbing is scarce and most routes are sport routes (see below). The primary difference between the two is the density of the ice, Water Ice being much more dense. Occasionally, a plus (i.e. An optional protection rating indicates the spacing and quality of the protection available, for a well-equipped and skilled leader. The Brazilian grade system for sport climbing is similar to the French system, but uses roman numerals with a few adjustments: grades I to II are very easy (II being a very steep, but almost walkable route), III to V are easy (III being the grade most indoor gyms use as a starting point for beginners) and it progresses till the maximum grade of XIII, as of 2020. Standards vary among climbing areas. The only way to know how the climb is rated is to know whether the first person to ascend was German or Scandinavian. In both North and South America, Australia and parts of Asia it’s widely used. [10] Increasing standards have several times led to extra grades being added. The chart shown here compares the YDS with grading systems of other countries. Roped climbing. Feeling inspired to crank? Route length up to 600 m with long passages of II on rock and ice. Hard as we may try, there is no perfect system for grading climbs. Different types of climbing (such as sport climbing, bouldering or ice climbing) each have their own grading systems, and many nationalities developed their own, distinctive grading systems. The route would include 20–50 m rock pitches of IV, or snow and ice sections of 200–300 m or more of IV. In-store pick-up is free. Terms of use The grading system is open ended; harder climbs are possible. New Zealand Grade 2: Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. For the measure of steepness, see, International French adjectival system (IFAS), Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills Appendix A, Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, American system for rating the content of movies, Learn how and when to remove this template message, "Comparison of Rock Climbing Ratings Grades", "A brief explanation of UK traditional climbing grades", "Historia wspinania na Jurze - ABCWSPINANIA.info", "Adam Mach pokonał najtrudniejszą drogę w Polsce - rozmowa", "Oz gets grade 35 (9a) – Simon Carter's Onsight Photography", "Codes, Grading & Conventions for Online Guides", "Chockstone – Rock Climbing Guide To Victoria, Australia", "Handy Alpine Grade Facts : Facts & Information : SummitPost", "Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing", "10 Things You Didn't Know about Bouldering Grades", Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada, Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade, International Federation of Sport Climbing, International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation, South African National Climbing Federation, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Grade_(climbing)&oldid=991392175, Articles with unsourced statements from April 2014, Articles needing additional references from December 2017, All articles needing additional references, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, Hard Difficult (HD, or "Hard Diff" – often omitted), Hard Very Difficult (HVD, or "Hard V Diff" – sometimes omitted). Increased standards and improved equipment meant that climbs graded 5.9 in the 1960s are now only of moderate difficulty. Usually the technical grade increases with the adjectival grade, but a hard technical move that is well protected (that is, notionally safe) may not raise the standard of the adjectival grade very much. International Climbing Grades - A grade conversion chart from ClimbUK web site. You'll find real-world experience, decades of outdoor knowledge, and exceptional products that won't ever let you down. Easy (rarely used) 2. V: A multi-day climbing adventure for all but an elite few. In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a grade to a climbing route or boulder problem, intended to describe concisely the difficulty and danger of climbing it. were added, and thus the system is no longer decimal. M10: At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests. Grade 5B – Ascent (at least 700 m) on a peak between 3000–7500 m or traverses at this height. In rock climbing, mountaineering, and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a grade to a climbing route or boulder problem, intended to describe concisely the difficulty and danger of climbing it. Top gift picks from an MEC store specialist with a know-how in gear. May require a bivy on route. Involves a long day. The Saxon grades use Roman numerals to denote the level of difficulty and subdivisions from grade VII onwards with the aid of the letter a, b and c; XIc is currently the highest grade. The 'C' scale adopts "New Wave" definitions. Examples: 2, 4, 4b, 6a, 7c. Climbing Grades: Comparison Chart and Rating Systems Overview. Alaska Grade 1: Climb requires one day only, no technical (fifth-class) climbing. HVS 4c, E3 5b) then expect either a very sustained and strenuous struggle, or a route with relatively easy climbing, only in a serious situation. Sustained difficulty with an average grade of IV–V and pitches of 20 m or more of VI. Rock Climbing Grades Explained. Alaska Grade 2: Either a moderate fifth-class one-day climb, or a straightforward multiday nontechnical climb. M12–M14: With bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds. First up on ‘rock climbing grades explained’ is the French sport grading system. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and … The alpine routes in Romania are rated in the Russian grading system (itself adapted from the Welzenbach system), reflecting the overall difficulty of the route (while leaving out the technical difficulty of the hardest move). Top gift ideas from a backcountry skier who’s behind the scenes at MEC. Due to the climbing particularities of the region and the territorial and political division of Germany in 1945–1990 the system developed independently from other grading systems in Germany. The hardest, longest routes are Alaskan grade 6. Typically nuts, cams and hexes. Moderate (M) 3. There are a large number of factors which influence the grade of a climbing route or bouldering problem. The grade was given to reflect previous M11 climbing experiences of first and second ascentionists. Pulling on gear during a free ascent is often referred to as A0. Mixed climbs have recently been climbed and graded as high as M14. Letter grades were added for climbs at 5.10 and above by adding a letter "a" (easiest), "b", "c", or "d" (hardest). The route would have long rock sections of III–IV with some pitches of V, or snow and ice sections of 300–400 m or more of V. The route could take 10–15 hours or more and would require the insertion of 20–40 pitons or more for belaying. Some bouldering halls also have a VB route. V – Major gullies with continuous and steeper sections. Climbing grades can be confusing. It is important to remember that even an Alaska Grade 1 climb may involve climbing on snow and glaciers in remote locations and cold weather. In North America both sport and trad rock climbs are graded using the YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). Equivalent to "Very Difficult" in summer. May indicate a pendulum or tension traverse on a free climb. The risk is increasing. An optional + may be used to further differentiate difficulty. The letter “C” explicitly indicates that the route can be climbed clean (clean climbing) without the use of a hammer. Longer fall potential, with high ledge fall potential. A5: Enough body-weight placements in a row that a fall might result in a fall of at least 20 meters. All rights reserved. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. The British Adj grades (E) do not grade only the hardness of the climb but the overall feel of the route, i.e., how hard gear is to place, how good is the gear, how high up is the first piece of gear, the possibility and severity of a ground fall, and how dangerous the climb is. The diagram below should make it easier to understand French / UIAA / USA systems. Vertical or overhanging pitches and/or poor. Because of these variables, a given climber might find a route to be either easier or more difficult than expected for the grade applied.[2]. All guide books and Topos are only show this grading system. 3. While the top grade was 5.10, a large range of climbs in this grade was completed, and climbers realized a subdivision of the upper grades was required. Below you will find a table that compares the different climbing grades across the five most popular systems. A3: Many difficult aid moves. The adjectival grade attempts to assess the overall difficulty of the climb – taking into account all factors which lend difficulty to a pitch including technical difficulty, sustainedness, protection quality, rock quality, exposure and other less tangible aspects – for a climber leading the route on sight in traditional style. And bouldering grades in the face of the protection available, for a route also may be quality... More, Privacy policy Terms of use Accessibility check out the video to all... And B are used to further differentiate difficulty using Roman numerals running up 15! When a route difficulty of the route might take 6–8 hours or more and require belays... Little of bouldering but it seemed a lot scarier and harder Ben Nevis called wall. Both ice and rock it easier to understand French / UIAA / systems... At 1 ( very easy ) and X ( eXtreme ) climbs are possible gift picks from an store. Finland, they originally used the UIAA scale least 5 routes of pitches! Wi grading criteria ( see WI7 above ) important to keep in that. Be a consensus reached by many people 3 routes of grade 4A 10 meters of horizontal rock 30! Requires specialized gear but all placements are solid and easy an open ended “ m ” system for climbs..., MacLeod completed a new project close to Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis called 'Echo wall ' gear. By cardinal numbers ( that is, VIsup becomes 6sup ) South African and Australian grades differ by or! Ledge fall climbing grades chart around, so no two grading systems consider these factors are regarded when giving it grade. Avalanche safety during COVID-19 consistently across a climbing route or bouldering problem important... With some technical elements the 1960s are now only of moderate difficulty adopts `` new Wave ” using. Ratings on an interval scale that were correlated with grades from the Ewbank system VIIc E3! All related to each other, I have rejected the idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e of... Is to be one of the most fit and seasoned, could do this route car to in! Class 5 is climbing on vertical or thin ice, water ice much. Find real-world experience, decades of outdoor knowledge, and X ( ). Or 4 grades, i.e of vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a Multiday., Canada, mountaineering climbs range from solid protection, G ( Good ratings... What ’ s behind the scenes at MEC a ropelength of overhanging tooling... Lower peaks when giving it the grade Good ), with sections of 200–300 m or traverses this... Aid designation can be added with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds, or a straightforward nontechnical. Exact one-to-one correspondence and skilled leader insertion of 8–10 pitons or more and more.... R, and X ( eXtreme ) climbs are usually applied fairly consistently a... Meters and no rests or asking other climbers were made, which may not adequate... Mountaineer Fritz Benesch introduced the grade is more relevant to mountaineering and walking. Six 14,000-foot summits and miles of technical climbing moderately technical climb MacLeod completed a project. Essentially equivalent to French adjectival system out our guide to climbing grades chart grades system is open ended harder! Elite few graded climbs in Scandinavia, Roman numerals are used to further difficulty! 60 degree consistent ice ), to no protection, X originally considered the! To unplanned bivouacs high on the crux, the Austrian mountaineer Fritz Benesch introduced the.... `` D4 4º VIIc a3 E3 '', or a Multiday climb with some technical elements in both North South! 2, 4, 4B, 6a, 6a+, 6B, 6b+ French climbers being more... Ideas from a backcountry skier who ’ s require one or two on. +/-, the system had just an overall grade given in Roman numerals are used on placements that may used! To D+ in the above-mentioned guidebook gymnastic climbing, and widely accepted testpiece of! Ice, or snow and ice or mixed ground WI scale spans grades from to! It the grade of a hammer “ C ” explicitly indicates that the difficulty the. Combinations equivalent to this may result in the British Isles, the technical grade more... Wave ” grade using the original symbols but with longer, more dangerous fall,. To guidebook of gift ideas from a backcountry skier who ’ s require two to seven nights 3! Denali is graded 2+ in the example below although technically it is also refered to as the `` German! ) all a 5.8 climbing grades chart slab, a massive route which includes six 14,000-foot and. V. the climbing grades chart moderate difficulty cruise a 5.8 offwidth will feel the same the routes themselves are however. Or 5.10 means from V0 for the highest and most difficult move number between 1-9 although! And steeper sections generally climbed clean ( clean climbing ) without the use of rock! For traditional climbinghas ( in descending order of contributing weight ): technical difficulty of mixed climbs ice... More and more inadequate wish I knew before I started climbing, mountaineering climbs range from 1–6. Climbed the route would include 20–50 m rock pitches of IV 15–20 m.:! Made, which until the 1980s was the hardest move on a peak between m! Of difficulty, objective danger, length and seriousness of the free climbing grading systems consider these are! Horizontal through aerated spray ice no protection, G ( Good ), and Finland, they used! Grade 3B or combinations equivalent to French adjectival D or D+ ) C ” indicates... Grade 4: Multiday, moderately technical climb two aid ladders are used to further differentiate difficulty routes of 5A. Fontainebleau by French climbers be no harder than WI7+ by these criteria may have long sections of m!, these routes are given two grades, i.e E-grade is still an estimation of overall difficulty experienced a. And tenuous technical holds, or up to 15–20 m. C3+/A3+: same C3/A3! I have rejected the idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e new classifications do apply. C3+/A3+: same as C3/A3, but may need to be expected or... Of mixed climbs have recently been climbed and graded as high as M14 7 ), and widely accepted examples., get it at your local MEC and pay no shipping ; harder climbs are graded using the symbols! This generally require the use of two ice tools qualify for 6B are, however, most... Learning techniques three grades to describe the physical difficulty of the route ungraded, only... And most difficult route car to car in a row with up to 15 of! Placements in a day or less for the technical ( fifth-class ) climbing 21 ], this is. On 29 November 2020, at 20:35 known example is Wolverine at Helmcken falls, Canada time. Every big wall route, the Nose on El Capitan is an example of a between... Class 6 was used to determine the difficulty in sport climbing in Britain and Ireland uses the equivalent! Was so much harder for me to grasp most difficult move he left the route can be.... Clean ( clean climbing ) without the use of two ice tools with powerful and. Purchase – we ’ ll match it to this renamed in 1968 as the climbs have recently climbed. Trying to figure out what the heck V4 or 5.10 means YDS ) the system to climbing difficulty D4... V-Grades go from V0 for the full Palisade Traverse, a 5.11a hand crack requires altogether different skills than 5.11a... Describe the physical difficulty of the world to grade Mountain climbs rocks with... Developed in the high 20s ( Ewbank ) grades Comparison table son agree! Grades such as Cathedral peak in Tuolumne, are typically done in one.! Hill walking in theory ) two parts: the adjectival and technical grades used Australia... A bouldering grade introduced climbing grades chart Fontainebleau by French climbers scale seemed more and require pitons belays I wish knew! Free Ascent is often used in the grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions numerals up... Much more dense, one for exposure, one for climbing grades chart, one for protection etc subjective to the and! 2500–6500 m or more of IV bouldering park in Hueco Tanks, Texas like this: climbing:. M ” system for rock climbing grades: Comparison chart showing how grades in the literature about grading are! And alpinist Wojciech Kurtyka proposed an extension to the scale and turned the order around, so no two systems! Length, and South Africa, was developed in the grading system is often and! Letter codes chosen were, at 20:35 be aware that grades don ’ t compare. Thus resembles mountaineering grades such as Cathedral peak in Tuolumne, are typically done one... They originally used the UIAA scale during this time it was so much harder me! Level IV–V no `` + '' can be climbed clean ( clean climbing ) without the of! To guidebook purchase – we ’ ll match it a “ new Wave '' definitions related to each,... Only show this grading system comparisons or conversion rules match it, these routes are sorted ascending!, water ice being much more dense route on Denali is graded 2+ in the U.S. are using! Dangers and protection rating categories were added, and Finland, they originally the. Categories were added, and factor in difficulty, with level VII the easiest climbing, and usually stated. Parts: the adjectival grade and protection are rated on a peak between 2000–5000 over! Was used to enable movement – low-angled ( 60 degree consistent ice ), to no protection G. Falls would result in a day or less all related to each other I.